Random System Freeze

Thanks @ricklinux this is exactly what I would like you check about it to be sure you have the latest Bios. I read this last Updated on 22 Déc 2019 ! not sure if they made some modification on it ??? try to see that first.

From your log file, it seems that something goes wrong with power management functionality. So I don’t know if it comes from Bios, Bios setup or whatever !
Did you try to remove your battery to test in only using the Adapteur ?
Would be curious to see if you got the same log file without ?

Usually from my experience in the past they would show what changes have been made to a new Bios file even if they used the same version number which i have seen occasionally over the years. Normally they do give the updates a new number but it’s also possible they don’t. A minor change could have been made to the existing files?

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I have to say Dell is not my experience on how they do with Bios !!
But sure they said updated on 22 Déc 2019…at least start with the latest Bios could help for others steps…if it’s really new one !!

I do like the idea of running it without the battery installed just with the power adapter to test. The battery isn’t necessary to run it on the power cord.

Also i don’t see a problem re flashing the Bios in any case. As long as it’s done correctly and you know what you are doing.

You people mean, running it without the battery and wait for a failure?
Or just without battery and look at the log anyway?

Before to remove the battery could you show the result from ?
If it doesn’t work install acpi

acpi -i

Then I will reflash the BIOS with this 2019, we agree you let the battery and adapter plugged when you do it. After that, there are few solutions to resolve this problem on Arch :

https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/ACPI_modules

Sometimes you see “ACPI: EC: input buffer is not empty, aborting transaction”. This is a problem with ACPI, more specifically an incompatibility of the BIOS. There may be four ways to solve this issue :

  • If available, flash BIOS.

  • Use acpi=off as kernel parameter, however this will kill all ACPI functionality like battery charging and power saving.

  • In some cases disabling DPMS has been reported to solve the issue [1]. However, screen brightness may no longer be fully controllable:

  • Build a custom kernel with patches of bugs.launchpad.net.

I just installed it and this is the output.

$ acpi -i
Battery 0: Full, 100%
Battery 0: design capacity 2520 mAh, last full capacity 2030 mAh = 80%
Battery 1: Discharging, 0%, rate information unavailable

You only use your adapter and your battery stays at 80% couldn’t reach full capacity of 2520 mAh !

Don’t remove your battery yet, let your adapter plugged.
Then could you reflash your BIOS with 2019 version ?

The battery probably only charges to 80% but reports full charge. This is what happens to batteries eventually and some will say full charge and as soon as you unplug them the laptop dies. It’s not a very high capacity battery either.

Yes it charges up to 80% because of its age, it is 4 years old now.
I still can use the battery a few hours though.

That’s pretty good as most don’t last depending on how they are used.

Most of the time it runs on AC, lets says for 80% :wink:

That’s typical and the battery isn’t used and then it becomes no good eventually. It loses the ability to fully charge and or hold a charge. They don’t last for the life of the machine usually but it depends.

Edit: Maybe you can recondition it so that it will fully charge back up to 100%

How would I do this?
Just discharge to zero and recharge it?

And another thing, do you think I can flash my bios with a Win hdd attached to usb?

There are are number of methods to try to recondition the battery. You can google them. I would suggest trying using it unplugged until the battery is dead. Then plug in and charge it up fully but don’t turn the laptop on. When it’s fully charged unplug it and let it sit for a few hours until the battery has cooled off. Then turn it on and use it again unplugged until it is dead. I would try this for 3-4 cycles making sure you give the battery time to cool down each cycle because they get hot. 2-4 hours cool down. Then you will see if it charges the full 100%. This may or may not work and there are other methods you could try. The battery for this unit is not that expensive anyway. I have checked and if i have the correct number a cheap battery is like 26.99 plus tax with 1 year warrany. The batteries i buy are 2 yr warranty and are good for 800+ recharges. I checked the price and if i have the correct number they are $59.99+tax cdn. If you take the battery out it has a number on the back of it. Not sure what country you are in but i can give you the information if i have the battery number and you can see if it is
available.

As for flashing the Bios with a USB hard drive with Windows 10 on it. I really don’t know if it would be an issue. You can make a backup of the original Bios when you do it. I have never done that in all my years and i have been lucky i guess that i have had no issues. The most important thing is not to lose power during the process. I always make sure that after i flash the Bios i go directly into it after on the reboot and i load the defaults and save them. Others may have a different method but i’m assuming this is a Windows flash program. I have also used a DOS bootable disc to do it with binary file. Most flashing now a days on newer EUFI can be done over the network or with a usb disc containing the files right in the UEFI settings. Just make sure you follow the manufacturers instructions for their Bios flash procedure. When you go to download the file they will have that info.

Edit: I’m thinking the battery is M5Y1K

Rick,

Thanks for your reply!

First of all, why would I need a new battery, it is not dead yet.
I removed its lifeline and the battery lasted over more than 4 hours.

You don’t know in what country I am in? Look at the flag. :wink:

And about my bios, I’ve flashed it some time ago and tried several methods but only with a win hdd was working.
If you’re unsure about flashing it from usb I’ll better put it in.

I’m not suggesting you replace the battery. I’m just saying eventually that’s what happens to them. They start losing the ability to fully charge and or hold a charge. That happens for various reasons and the way they are being used also has a hand in that. Trying to recondition the battery is just so it charges up to full capacity. It isn’t going to give you a significant boost in battery time but it is a good practice every 3-4 months. Using a laptop always plugged in doesn’t do the battery any good. It is better to fully charge a battery and then take it out and use the laptop plugged in and then when you do use it off power with battery in it drain it down to 30 -40 % at least and then fully charge it again. Sometimes you need to fully drain it and fully charge it. You also don’t want the battery sitting around doing nothing for months either.

I’m not very good with flags so yes i had to look it up. :wink:

I also just mentioned the battery isn’t too bad in price if you buy the right one from the right place. If you bought it from Dell it’s expensive. Not suggesting you need one currently. Just passing on the info.

And today something else happened.
I booted this laptop up and it became unusable.

Every app takes ages to load, firefox and Chromium are very, very slow.
When I’m loading a webpage the cpu stays at 100% for 15 secs.

Edit: never mind, after detaching and reattaching the power chord all seems normal. :thinking:
fail-safe mode?

To me it smells more and more like a hardware issue. Overheating maybe? Or a Ram not always detected?
Did it use the swap a lot when that slow?

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Don’t know about the swap.
I have had this kind of behaviour once before and I recall now that the power line was not well attached then too.

Only half way in so it could not detect the battery status.