I’m using a MSI laptop myself. TLP is a must.
To help you measure the effect of your TLP tweaking efforts you can use powerstat from AUR (it works best without power adapter plugged in). I’m usually launching powerstat with these params: powerstat -d 5 1.
You can also use s-tui to see what you can expect when hammering the CPU under battery.
Undervolting can extend battery life and improve performance (when capped because of throttling).
You could also try slimbookbattery, and slimbookamdcontroller. I had good results with slimbookbattery.
thanks @nate !
So, for the sake of time (I have a bunch of things to do today, including setting up ardour and jack), I could just install slimbookbattery and go with the GUI? that way I’d skip messing with TLP?
I usually don’t care for the report. I use powerstat for the real-time power draw to check if the power settings i just tweaked have the desired effect.
If you care for the report, then maybe running powerstat with other parameters might make more sense.
Is your computer plugged in? It shows the real power draw only when on battery.
Okay …now i got it working showing drawing quite a bit at the start but then after running for a while just idling it showed zero again. When i stopped it it had .019 average. I’m going to run it again full cycle and see.
It had mostly zero all the way until the very last two cycles. Then it showed this at the tail end of the second last cycle and last cycle.
Hard to tell, if you use external monitor or other peripherals, they might increase the power draw irrespective of the power setting. Also try to fiddle around with the power settings for each profile (advanced mode).
Did you try installing slimbookamdcontroller? My experience is only with Intel CPUs. Maybe AMD does things differently.
My power draw is around 20 watt. If I disconnect the external monitor attached to the HDMI port I get only 15watt power draw, and if I also disconnect the usb3 hub, which itself has another monitor attached to it, I get around 7-10 watt. I din’t see much change when switching from performance to energy saving, but this is because the CPU has a good power management out of the box, and because there is a factory preset prower profile that kicks in at hardware level when operating on battery.
As I said in my first post, undervolting gives you a good result performance and power wise. I got my CPU boost frequency to increase with 400 or 600 mhz (can’t remember now), it being initially limited because of the maximum allowed power draw from the factory. Reducing the voltage allows more performance in the allowed power budget, not to mention it keeps the CPU cooler, and hence the whole system more silent.