Hello fellow fellows,
I’m thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard. What should I pay particular attention to if I want to buy a mechanical keyboard?
Do any of you have experience with these keyboards? Do you have any recommendations?
Keychron, Corsair, Logitech there are so many. I think I will prefer keychron. I would be happy to have a lively exchange.
I have some experience with these, I’ve owned a few. I am on train currently but I can update when I get back to my PC.
I loved my mechanical keyboards, either you love them or hate them.
EDIT: If you own a cat or dog, 
I have way too may mechanical keyboards. 
There are three main categories of switches:
The various colors all fall into one of those categories with the differences being the force required to press them, the activation distance and the total distance of travel.
Keychron is a great value option and a great place to start. I have a V3. I would recommend the V-series keyboards.
My most recent acquisition is a low profile keyboard though and I have really been enjoying it.
I’d second everything, beside the last part - my most recent addition is a Model F from IBM, which was WAY too expensive. Keychron is HUGE value for the money. Forget about the Gaming Brands, they are just “me toos” and to expensive. Get a Keychron with Hot Swap Switches and jump into the Rabbit Hole. I am 30+ Units deep…
I got my first mechanical keyboard about a month ago… after about 2 years of hesitating because I didn’t like how it felt when I tried one out at the store. I ended up liking what I have it but I’m not crazy about it if you get me.
If you’re used to - or prefer - minimal hand movement over your keys, it will take some time getting used to. NGL, my wrists suffered the first week of using it because I was not prepared for the significant typing position change. Then I had to get a wrist rest to alleviate the strain and adjust my seating and overall desk position to see if it will make things better. Almost three weeks with the wrist rest - still uncomfortable. 
I’m still trying to adapt to this keyboard because I end up liking the feel of typing on it (after some modifications) and because it’s programmable, but I still think my Thinkpad Trackpoint II is superior in terms of size and comfort of use (it is very thin and typing on it takes 0 effort). In hindsight, perhaps I should have gotten a low-profile mechanical keyboard or an Alice layout keyboard, but alas, I couldn’t find any that was within my keyboard budget.
My point is, it could be a good idea to physically check and test a mechanical keyboard if you can, just in case you’re particular and sensitive about ergonomics. If you’re good with those, then I definitely think dalto covered the most important parts already.
P.S. Outemu Silent White switches = 
+1 for getting hot-swappable switches, that is good advice. Even if you are handy with a soldering iron (I am not), this will spare you some grief if a switch goes bad or if you decide you want to try a different type of switch altogether.
Personally, I think getting pre-lubricated switches is worth it. I have gone through the bother of doing it myself, but it takes hours to do a whole keyboard. You have to take the switch apart, lubricate the spring and internal surfaces, put the switch back together, and reinstall it on the keyboard for every switch, one by one. I got a Keychron C2 Pro that came with pre-lubed switches and they are just as good as the ones I did painstakingly by hand.
Keychron also has several models with acoustic padding pre-installed, which is also worth it in my opinion. Often it is fairly trivial to open up a keyboard and add some foam or whatever yourself, but depending on your specific keyboard model sometimes they are not easy to open without at least a jimmy and some shims.
It seems I was not quick enough but I will place in my take but some information may be duplicated from others. And also a lot of stuff with keyboards are personal preference and no right or wrong so the odd thing I mention may be biased to my preference of the keyboards I use.
For me the most important part of a mechanical keyboard is the keycaps, I would look for PBT if you can as this is the type of plastic that will not shine through use and is a lot more durable. A lot of keycaps are ABS which is the type of plastic that will shine with use. There is also keycap thickness, which makes a difference. That being said there are good quality ABS keycaps, but they will still be susceptible to plastic shine.
In terms of numbers and letters usually the best types are double shot and injection mold, this will mean the characters will never wear off with use.
For switches there are different weights before they actuate, which is the force required to push the switch down. I think my ones (Browns) are 55g from what I remember. There is also the travel distance which is how far you have to press down to activate the switch, so it’s a combination of weight and distance.
The other thing is depending on the keyboard the switches either go straight to the PCB and that’s it or some keyboards will have a metal plate between the switches and the PCB, my preference is a metal plate as the keybaord is more solid, won’t flex as much
I have had clicky and tactile, at least with cherry switches I have had blues and browns. I started off with blues and switched to brows as these were just way too noisy for me and just like the bump feel.
One other thing is I don’t know which country you are based but at least for me I bought an American ANSI keyboard while I live int he UK. The reason being that if you want to buy aftermarket key caps, there is far more variety for American layouts and cheaper that European profile sets which are a lot more uncommon.
In terms of Size there are many as Dalto mentioned but I have an 80% as I hate the number pad, without the number pad I can have the keyboard centered to me when I am typing and out of the way of the mouse.
If you are curious of the keyboard I have It is a Filco Majistouch 2, however the key caps they provide are ABS and a bit cheap feeling, I already had aftermarket key caps so this wasn’t too much of an issue.
I will add another comment if I think of anything else but this is what comes to mind so far.
Most importantly look for “hot swappable”, that means you can easily replace the mechanical switches - which are the most important part of the experience - by yourself. So if you don’t like how the keyboard “feels” you can upgrade later. Otherwise they will be soldered on the board and you’re stuck with what you bought. Also you can reuse these switches in another keyboard.
Another big topic of customization are the keycaps. It’s easier to acquire an U.S. (english) layout than there is variety in localized keycaps. So if you don’t mind about an U.S. layout maybe consider it. Go for “double shot” for more quality.
If you’re into Linux it’s worth to look into keyboards via QMK/VIA support, which provide open firmware and configuration software.
At the end of day it’s a real rathole. If you don’t care about “wasting” 50 bucks just to put a toe into the water just ignore everything above and maybe get a Logitech K835 TKL with tactile if you like “clicky” or linear if you like “silent”. See what it does for you.
PS: There are great guides at the r/mechanicalkeyboard wiki.
Thank you all. As expected, that’s quite a lot of information.
I think I have understood the most important things. I probably won’t be able to avoid a visit to a computer store. I need to feel the keyboard and the keys with my fingers.
Some RGB bling bling would be nice.
Hot-swappable switches are a must
The size, whether 65% or 80%, remains to be seen.
I don’t really need a numpad.
PBT keycaps, not translucent
A German ISO layout is very important
Now I just have to find out what Gateron low-profile switches are and what disadvantage they have
I think I could do quite well with the Keychron K1 pro.
I should say that while I do have a filco keyboard there are very good other brands out there now, keychron was one I looked at at one point. Thing is my keyboard isn’t dead and probably won’t be any time soon so no idea when I will will end up with a different one.
And also this is a lot of information but you don’t need for follow it all, I’m just throwing everything out there I know or my preference but you can ignore some of it if it’s not important and the most important thing is be happy with the keyboard as I didn’t know all this when starting out and I was happy with my keyboard.
One thing I forgot to add prior is there are hotswappable switches, although I haven’t used these so I don’t have much experience with this.
There is also key set profiles (Key set is just all the keys on the keyboard and how high of low they sit),mine are same height all across and I know some people hate that and find them uncomfortable, and there are different profiles where the caps are more angled or higher on different rows. But this is something that can only be tried. Some example profiles are Cherry profile, OEM, and XDA (Which I think is mine).
Some keyboard come with a detachable cable at the back. Some of these are not actually battery powered but just means you can move it easier I guess.
And another thing is if you are really unsure about key switches you can buy test boards on Amazon, that have one of every switch type on it.
There is also the shape on top of the keycap, some of them are cylinder type shape where it is like an arch, my ones are kind of spherical so all four sides of the top go towards the center like a slight crater shape.
I remember the pain of looking for keyboards in the beginning, so many switches, caps and types, and I couldn’t test any of them.
This is extra and not necessary but if the keys are really noise because you bottom out when you type (The cap hitting directly on top of the switch housing, like me), then you can buy o rings, these are little rings that can be placed under the keycaps. I found them to make the keyboard sound better and feel better while typing but it will reduce the travel distance a bit.
Owner of several Filco Majestouch devices. (Cherry MX blue and brown keys).
Honestly, - start with something cheap, or get a sample set of keys, to see if you actually enjoy the way mechanical keyboard behave. The older I’ve got, the more I’ve gone back to low profile - to the point where my absolute favourite keyboard right now, is a Logitech MX Keys. The Majestouch range is a joy to use, - especially the blue keys, but again, get to understand your requirements for tactile feedback. I used o-rings under all my caps to dampen the range, - and noise.
Mechanical keyboards have their place, but they also have their considerations, more so if you’re working or typing around other people, where the noise can be distracting.
Aaaaa, the good old MJ2… Very fond Memories - good value for money back in the days, nowadays completely outdated and old fashioned - I LOVE IT! My last MJ2 needs a repair since like 2 years or so, but I absolutely HATE tinkering with MJ2s… Sure, you can do it, but compared to a custom, a good old Cherry or a Keychron it is a PITA. Must motivate me, because I love this baby. And the high profile SA caps I got for it are maklng it to something else.
Sorry I wrote my recent message and then saw this after sending it.
I hope you find the best keyboard for you.
In terms of the 80% and 65% that you may need to consider (Disclaimer is I have never owned a 65% keyboard) is 65% may make certain things harder like games, if you happen to play games as they sometimes use the f keys and these can be harder to reach as you need to activate them
Maybe I’m wrong and others will chime in though.
The keyboard looks pretty good so far. The only thing you may need to ask support is the description says PBT doesn’t shine through (As in LED) but the option says LED PBT backlight so you may need to check this. But what it could mean is the LED will only shine under the caps and the letters won’t shine any light. Seems like good keycaps too on this keyboard too.
I have never used Gatreon, but what I know is in terms of colours is the colours can be the same as Cherry, such as brown but the weight and travel can be different. Just wanted to let you know in case you read about red or brown switches but it could be referring to Cherry in forums, or even other switch makers. but Gatreon is a good manufacturer of switches from what I recall.
No problem, it seems we wrote and sent it at the same time. Thank you very much for the impressions you have described.
I can take something from every post here. The linked keychron would be just one example of what would appeal to me. Appearance and ISO layout should fit.
I have set myself a budget of max. 150€. This would still be within the range 
Many thanks for your views.
Unfortunately, the V series does not have a German ISO layout
I think the K1 with German ISO layout is in my range of possibilities.
I see a knob next to the F12 button on the V3. What is the function of this knob?
Oh sorry, I just found the V3 with German ISO layout
Anything you want! That’s the fun of it.
Commonly people will use it for volume, but it can be set to anything that you can figure out how to configure it for. Backlight brightness, zoom in and out, switch between open applications, toggle between keyboard layouts, change workspaces…
With QMK, any key can be programmed to whatever you want. Keybindings, macros…a guy I work with has a key set to type his email address when he presses it.
Of course, I can program it any way I want it
These are statements from a non-user of a mechanical keyboard. Or a mistake in thinking
I’ve got a WASD one hundred something that isn’t made anymore. I wish it was ten-keyless (TKL) and not have thse extra keys on the right side. My next won’t have this area. It’d give me less shoulder angle when I need to use the mouse.
Did you consider a low profile mechanical keyboard? It seems like that might be closer to what you want.
For me, 65% has two many compromises. I have one of those for use with my TV and some things are a pain. Primarily the function keys. But also dedicated keys for home/end/pgup/pgdn/print scrn are a must for me. I used 80% for years and like that layout a lot. As a compromise, you could consider 75% which still has function keys.
Gateron is just a brand. Low-profile switches are for low-profile keycaps. The only real disadvantage is they generally have less overall travel. However, if you are not accustomed to a different mechanical keyboard, I doubt you would even notice that. The advantage of low profile keyboards is that they are lower which may mean a more comfortable typing angle. Of course, that depends on how you type.