Mineral oil is non-conductive, and can have the appearance of water, in a cool aquarium like case mod.
Years ago a mate and I prototyped a “submerged phone” for a retail display. Sadly, the phone screen was completely destroyed by the mineral oil. Turning up at the checkout with the ridiculous amounts of mineral oil we needed from a local supermarket got us some interesting looks though 
Just because you can. . . doesn’t mean you should. But it is pretty cool I guess.
So far within 5*C between my Noctua nh-u12a and my Asus ROG 360 AIO water cooler in pretty much everything I’ve done for the last few days. They both pretty much live 30s-70s. I’m not sure I need more than that in my life, so I think I’m gonna keep the air cooler and sell off the big cooler.
Chugging away foruming and doing nothing crazy:
k10temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
Tctl: +39.0°C
Tccd1: +34.8°C
Tccd2: +35.8°C
With an air conditionner :
Wrong.
But, correct!
In 25 years I use PC always had air cooling. Even in the last decade, where I assemble the PC.
Never had major temperature problems. Honestly, unless you take top -of -the -range liquid cooling (maybe), I’m not sure that the rest is better than a case with a good air flow and a good air padding. As far as I’m concerned, the Aqua “is cool” hepators "to have mounted them, but on the effective rendering better than a good air heatsink I strongly doubt.
I would go to a water heatsink only if I were forced (that is, all the other solutions have not worked). And so far it has never happened.
At the moment on the main PC I have a Ryzen 7 5700x with an air dissatator Noctua. To be precise, a NH-D15 Noctua. Basically it has 2 140mm fans, but I removed them and I put three of 120mm (always noctua fans) on the aluminum clover.
I must say that it is fine. I don’t go beyond 65/70 degrees with full load, even prolonged. Obviously the fans I replaced are PWM, and I changed the workload based on the temperature from the BIOS (I did not leave the standard values).
In addition to this I always see to take houses that have a good air flow, beyond aesthetics and other things.
I’m on the same page here too. Have only ever used air cooling.
Even in those PC which were overclocked, there were no temperature problems?
As for me not, also because when I do it, I never squeeze everything at most, at best I do a moderate overclock. On my old Intel i5 at 2.6 GHz (quad-core) I pushed it up to 3.2 GHz, to say. Nothing excessive.
But generally no.
Then you must always see in the specific case. There are CPUs which basically warm up much more than the others. But I am convinced that with a good air heatsink, a good case, and the fans who throw the air out at the top of the case (where the base of liquid cooling would be housed, or put that or put it on the fans) are sufficient in most cases.
Then if you increase a CPU 2GHz, it is normal that instead of warming you can cook on it. It always depends if you want a PC or a portable oven. XD
There are CPUs like AMD and GPUs like NVidias which are basically heaters. If we run them in a small room during winters, no need for any additional heating. Have heard the same about SPARC Ultra processors and PowerPC processors too. Though have not experienced it personally.
And then there are some like ARM based processors, which have to be really pushed to the limit to get some heat out of them. Or they have to run in a thermally constrained environment. But many a times they simply lack the punch of a Intel processor. But that is a story for CISC vs RISC all over again.
But pushing a Intel i5 from 2.6 Ghz, its max frequency, upto 3.2 Ghz is something. That would have required cooling. Otherwise when it is done for a sustained period of time, it would have resulted in some things inside the case melting. How was damage avoided?
After some adjustments to my overall fan setup, I’m essentially getting exactly the same temperatures I got on my watercooler. I bumped the fan speeds up little in bios to performance, and it sounds like it used to with the watercooler. A little quieter, but not much anymore.
I’m just surfing the net, doing normal computing and I’m usually sitting very low 30s
And it was a little warm in here last night gaming (approx 28C) and I didn’t see a blip over 72 at all. I’m pretty damn content with that. It’s exactly as it was with my 360 AIO. Hitting 100+ fps on Very High settings on cyberpunk (this is a 1440p screen, not 1080).
Looks good
This has been very interesting to play around with.
Edit - looking at my amdgpu junction temp - I think I’m going to pull it and repaste inside. See if I’m getting throttling from it. I’ve never taken a look at those temps prior. I will also bump the bios option to performance as well.
Post repaste - the Bender tip of this Saturday children is go out and repaste your GPU!
Pulling the full 290W now, and I’m still a good 20C LOWER temps! Noctua H2 thermal paste is what I used. What a difference! CPU went up slightly though?
I don’t know how to use the tools your using to show the same info. I typed in sensors on my AMD 3800X that has the stock AMD air cooler and heat sink with an RX 590 gpu. This is what it shows basically just using it at idle. You have a higher end CPU and Graphics card. I do have the massive Noctua cooler on another desktop with the 5800X and RX 6750 XT gpu which would be closer to your set up. It doesn’t have anything installed on it yet.
Edit: I also have it set to run 65w in the Bios.
I never had a problem with Corsair’s H55 or H100 but NZXT’s H1v1’s AIO was problematic and started gunking up the coldplate after 3 years. I cleaned it 3 times before switching to Noctua’s air cooler. I should’ve switched much earlier, because now my system runs nearly silently and has better temps, which is insane.
watch sensors
So just for my reference Noctua has both, air cooler and a thermal paste?
Noctua makes more than that. Google is your friend on this one.